Ciao Bella

After a whirlwind few weeks exploring Greece, we were ready to swap tzatziki and spanakopita for pizza, pasta carbonara, and gelato. Luke had always been a bit hesitant about the classic Italian hot-spots, worried they might be super touristy or overrated, but Jelley convinced him it would be worth it, plus our flights to Morocco were out of Milan, and we'd be passing through regardless. So off we went to Italy, starting with Rome, ready to dive into the chaos and charm of the city.

We had spent a while debating how to make the most of six days in Italy and get from Rome to Milan, and in the end, we decided to keep it simple and stay just 1 night in the capital. When we arrived, the shuttle Jelley booked online was nowhere to be found, our Ryanair flight was delayed, and we were staring down a 90-minute wait for a ride we weren't sure our booking would be honoured on. Luckily, we figured out we could hop on a public bus and then two metro lines to reach our accommodation faster than the shuttle would ever arrive.

Our little neighborhood was just two metro stops from the Colosseum, perfect for soaking in the sights without the main tourist chaos. With the clock ticking and our stomachs rumbling from an early start with no breakfast, we checked in, got a little lost trying to find the building exit which was hilarious. Our first refuel was slices of delicious Italian pizza and a few golden arancini balls. Pure heaven.

We set off on our super-fast walking tour of Rome . A public holiday meant free entry to quite a few places, but it also meant the streets and sights were extra busy with tourists. That’s how these things go. Unfortunately, we arrived at the Colosseum and Palatine Hill at 3:35 pm, just five minutes after the last entry time of 3:30 pm. Missed it! No worries though, we still got to walk around the grounds and admire everything from the outside.

On top of that, a lot of restoration work was happening throughout the city for the Jubilee, so we had to be strategic about what we could actually see. The "Jubilee year" in Italy happens every 25 years. Jubilee 2025, also called the Holy Year, was announced by the pope and would last through all of 2025. The next regular Jubilee will be in 2050, unless the pope calls for an extraordinary one.

Being in Rome was both overwhelming and incredible. We wandered around to the Victor Emmanuel II Monument, also known as the Altare della Patria. It’s a massive white marble structure built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries to honor Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy. The monument is full of grand staircases, columns, and statues, and it’s easy to see why it dominates the area. We headed up the stairs of the monument to a viewpoint and were treated to an incredible sunset. Wow! The monument itself isn’t even that old by Rome’s standards, but the terrace was the perfect spot to soak in the skyline during golden hour just before sunset.

Next up was the famous Trevi Fountain. We were bracing ourselves for crowds and maybe even a little disappointment, but surprisingly, it wasn’t too busy at all. In fact, we got to enjoy a lot more of the fountain than we expected and really take in all the details up close. The fountain itself had been emptied of water (and the thousands of coins that people throw into it) as it underwent restorations and the installation of a viewing platform for the Jubilee, but we were happy to see it without the hoards of crowds around.

We then wandered over to catch a glimpse of the Pantheon,  an ancient temple that was originally built to honor all the gods of ancient Rome (circa 125 AD). It was insanely busy, with a line wrapped all the way around the block, so we could not get inside. Even from the outside, though, it was incredibly impressive for a near 2,000 year old structure. What makes the Pantheon especially remarkable is its huge concrete dome, which was an engineering miracle at the time and is still the largest unreinforced concrete dome ever built to this day.

We could not believe how much we had managed to see in just a couple of hours before it got dark. We ended the night at a tasty treat at a little cafe around the corner from us and promised ourselves we would return to Rome again one day (perhaps not during a public holiday weekend haha).

Satisfied with our Rome visit, we set off next to the bus station to catch a FlixBus from Rome to La Spezia, the gateway to Cinque Terre, a stretch of the Italian Riviera made up of five colorful cliffside villages connected by hiking trails, trains, and dramatic coastal views. The bus route took us through Siena and Pisa where we caught a quick glimpse of the Leaning Tower! It was a scenic drive across the Italian countryside and past plenty of places we would love to explore on a future trip.

We arrived easily in La Spezia, about four hours northwest of Rome. La Spezia is a charming port city on the Ligurian coast, known for its colourful harbor, delicious seafood, and as the gateway to the stunning Cinque Terre villages. Our plan was to tackle a section of the famous Cinque Terre trek, a series of scenic trails that connect 5 picturesque villages perched along the cliffs of the Italian Riviera. The trek is famous for its breathtaking coastal views, terraced vineyards, and charming pastel-colored houses. Jelley had always dreamed of visiting here after seeing many photos and hearing stories from travel friends. Luke hadn't really ever heard of it, but upon arriving he quickly remembered seeing a huge canvas of the Cinque Terre towns that hang on the walls of Jelley's former House of Travel office in Christchurch (like the photo below!).

We arrived at our darling little accommodation in La Spezia, tucked on the top floor of an apartment building right next to an olive orchard. The neighbourhood was so cute, and we were happy to be based here. Our apartment had a gorgeous balcony overlooking the olive trees and the charming Italian port-side town.

We wandered down the road to a local pizza place and found a super authentic, wood-fired pizzeria and calzones. The restaurant felt like something straight out of Ratatouille, full of friendly people saying “ciao bella” and “grazie mille” (hey beautiful and thanks a million). Looking at the picture frames on the walls, it was clear the two shop owners had won heaps of awards for their pizza-making skills. We devoured our delicious pizza and finished the day with a cozy movie night, watching the classic Lizzie McGuire, which Jelley remembered from childhood and set in Rome!

One of the coolest things about Cinque Terre is that all the coastal towns are connected by a network of trains and trails, so you can walk it however you like, starting and finishing wherever you want, then hop on a train back to your accommodation. It’s a perfect setup for multi-day trekking, something we both love. Since it was the end of the summer season we weren’t sure how much would be open in terms of accommodation, and because we really liked our little place in La Spezia just a short train ride away, we decided to just base ourselves there and do day trips along the trail.

Train strikes have a habit of following us around Europe, and Italy was no different! Thankfully we woke up early and made it on the trains before the strike at 9am, and expected to services to resume at 5pm. Plenty of time to explore! We decided to take the train to the furthest away town of Monterosso al Mare and walked back south along the coast as far as we felt like for the first day. We arrived at the train station for Monterosso al Mare, literally “Red Mountain by the Sea.” Absolutely gorgeous. As we expected, many of the shops were closed for the season, but we still managed to enjoy a delicious espresso and a focaccia prosciutto roll at a local café. We wandered around the town, taking in the charming streets and colorful houses. Along the way, we saw photos of Monterosso during the busy summer months, packed with crowds, and we felt grateful to practically have the place to ourselves, and being here in the off-season also meant we didn’t have to pay the summer fee for the trail.

We meandered along the coastline to stand beneath the Statua del Gigante, literally “Giant Statue,” carved into the mountainside. The statue depicts Neptune, the Roman god of the sea. It was built around 1910 by the Italian sculptor Arrigo Minerbi and it truly impressive, standing about 14 meters (46 feet) tall and positioned right on the beach, overlooking the Ligurian Sea.

We headed out along the trail south which was well sign posted and relatively accessible. The first bit of the trail walked past some old statues, churches, and a cemetery before heading up along the cliffside offering gorgeous views of the coast.

We walked through the undulating forest trail for about 5 km (around 3 miles), which was steep at times but very enjoyable, before rounding a bend to a breathtaking viewpoint overlooking Vernazza. This was the photo spot Jelley had always dreamed of, and for good reason. From this vantage point, the village seemed to spill down the cliffside toward the turquoise waters of the Ligurian Sea. The little houses were painted in shades of pink, yellow, and orange, stacked almost haphazardly yet perfectly, with tiled roofs and tiny balconies. The small port below glistened in the sunlight, dotted with colorful fishing boats bobbing gently in the water, creating a picture-perfect scene that felt almost unreal. Something straight out of a postcard.

We made our way down the snaking trail toward Vernazza, excited for a short break. We hardly encountered any other tourists along the way, just a few friendly Americans. Coincidentally, we did this section of trail on November 5th, election day in the U.S., which made for an interesting topic of conversation with everyone we met along the trail.

Descending into Vernazza, we were greeted by the cutest little town, with narrow cobbled streets winding between brightly colored buildings, tiny cafés spilling onto piazzas, and staircases leading down to the harbour. We grabbed a quick gelato at the only place that was open and enjoyed it by the water, watching the gentle waves and the few remaining tourists soaking it all in. Later, we wandered up to the Ruins of Doria Tower, which offered a stunning viewpoint over the town, the cliffs, and the sea stretching out as far as the eye could see. The tower itself is the remains of a historic defensive structure built in the 16th century by the powerful Genoese Doria family, part of a network of fortifications built to protect the village from pirate attacks and other invasions. Vernazza quickly became our favorite of all the villages we visited, brimming with charm, colour, and that quintessential Cinque Terre magic.

We carried on with our adventure toward the next town, Corniglia. The trail climbed along the ridgeline, offering one last breathtaking vantage point of Vernazza, its pastel houses tumbling down to the blue sea. Along the way, we came across a local farmer selling freshly squeezed lemonade, and it felt like a crime not to stop. We perched on a sun-warmed seat, sipped the refreshing drink, and soaked in the endless view of the glittering sea and rugged coastline. A simple stop, but the perfect pause to catch our breath and chat with a friendly local who was planning to close up in the coming days.

Continuing along the coastline, the sun began to dip toward the horizon. In the distance, Corniglia perched impossibly atop a ridgeline, its colourful houses glowing in the warm evening light. When we arrived, it was clear the town had already closed up for the season, with only one restaurant still (barely) open. We settled in for a meal and a drink, watching the sunset paint the sea in shades of gold and pink, and reflected on what a truly enchanting day this had been.

Running out of daylight, we made our way inland toward the nearest train station to head back home to La Spezia. When we arrived at the Corniglia train station, we glanced up at the schedule and quickly realized that, unlucky for us, the train strikes hadn't quite caught up for the day. The next train wasn’t for another two hours and it would be the last one of the night.

Chaos ensued on the platforms. The few other travelers around looked just as confused as we felt, and as the sun set and a cold breeze settled in, we started to worry about Plan B, since all the accommodations in Corniglia appeared to be closed. Thankfully, two hours later, the train finally rolled in, and people literally applauded as it arrived. We were relieved to step on board into the warm carriages, grateful that this was just a small hiccup in an otherwise perfect day.

We were very satisfied with the three towns we had explored along the Cinque Terre, so the next day we decided to take it easy and adjust our plans after the train drama the night before. Instead of hiking or taking the train, we opted for a bus to Portovenere, which isn’t technically part of the Cinque Terre but is a gorgeous town in its own right. Nestled at the mouth of the 'Bay of Poets', it boasts a charming harbor, the same colourful houses, and a dramatic coastline that feels just as magical as its more famous neighbors.

The area felt wonderfully peaceful and relaxing. We wandered up the steep streets, past the colorful buildings, and even spotted a huge jellyfish drifting lazily near the harbour. Eventually, we found a cozy little café and couldn’t resist grabbing some focaccia to take with us. With our snack in hand, we climbed up through an old castle, finding a perfect spot to sit and watch the sun sink slowly into the sea. Every moment along the Italian coastline felt like something straight out of a storybook.

The following day we set off on yet another train adventure, this time bound for Manarola, one of the final villages along the Cinque Terre and the last piece of our coastal puzzle. The station was noticeably busier, likely the result of a cruise ship in port, with large tour groups spilling out onto the platforms. Still, we felt an overwhelming sense of relief once we found out the next upcoming public transport strike would not interfere with our inter city train to Milan the following day.

The moment we arrived in Manarola, we were instantly amazed. The vibrant houses stacked precariously above the sea, the sparkle of the water below, and the hum of life throughout the village. Without hesitation, Manarola became Luke’s favourite village, and it was easy to see why. We wandered through the steep village streets, getting lost in the colourful buildings.

This day was a gentler one compared to our first, with less walking and more time to simply soak in the scenery. We left Manarola and headed toward Riomaggiore, tackling a steep hill that cut through terraced vineyards. Until 2012, there had been an easier coastal path connecting the villages, but a landslide had washed out a key section, so now the trail wound up and over the hill through the vines. It was very steep on both sides and Jelley went "fashion over function" today without her trusty hiking boots, but luckily it was not too challenging and offered a lovely lookout where could watch the waves crash on the rocks below.

Arriving in Riomaggiore felt like a reward. We could not have asked for better weather, with warm sun, gentle breeze, and the sparkling sea all around. We grabbed some fish and chips by the waterfront and took a moment to relax. Riomaggiore is one of the most famed of the five villages, though we found it a little less enchanting than the others, maybe because it was our last stop. Luke curled up for a nap while Jelley happily read by the water and sipped what turned out to be the most expensive Aperol of our trip, but completely worth it.

We returned to La Spezia for one last night at our favourite pizzeria - we just couldn’t get enough of it! After a great time on the Italian coast, it was time to pack up for an early departure to Milan the next morning. Both Luke and Jelley had visited Milan separately before, but this time we had a few good reasons to spend a night in the city again. Our flight to Marrakesh (Morocco) was leaving from one of Milan’s airports, and Milan, along with neighbouring Cortina, was gearing up to host the 2026 Winter Olympic Games. A few former colleagues and friends were involved in the project, and we were excited to catch up with them over some "aperitivo", a pre-dinner Italian tradition that’s part drink, part social ritual and claims to have originated in Milan. We were curious to hear how life in Milan was going for them!

The train journey back to Milan was remarkably smooth and Milan Central Station did not disappoint. It was everything a grand station should be, adorned with art, history, and bustling energy. Of course, there were the usual suspicious characters populating the platforms, but nothing quite like Frankfurt Hauptbahnhof...To our surprise, our accommodation in Milan was ready four hours before check-in, which was a total win. We quickly stowed our luggage and freshened up before setting out on foot with a couple of priorities: food, and the hope of finding the Milan-Cortina 2026 countdown clock!

We stumbled upon"Eataly", which is practically an institution in itself. We had visited in the U.S. but it felt special visiting one in Italy. Plus, the festive decorations made it feel like our first real Christmas in a couple of years, and we loved exploring the food stations, restaurant, and supermarket all under one roof. Later, we found the Olympic and Paralympic rings, but the countdown clock was nowhere in sight. We later realized it had not been installed yet, and perhaps we had arrived a bit too early for the one-year-to-go milestone.

By the end of the day, we had walked over 11 kilometers around Milan’s city center, partially because another public transport strike meant we did not really have a choice. One striking observation was the air quality. There was a hazy, smoggy layer hovering over the city. After a familiar scratchy throat prompted a little research, we discovered that Milan has some of the worst air quality in the world. It was super surprising and reminded us a little of our time in New Delhi one year prior.

The ongoing train strike meant that one of our former colleagues could not make it, but another organized a small gathering for aperitivo at a cozy local spot specializing in a variety of Italian snacks. It was such a fun, local experience. Aperitivo is traditionally meant to be a "light prelude" to dinner, but after the enormous amount of food we devoured, there was no way we were going to eat anything else. One of the platters arrived piled high with an assortment of finger foods, artfully arranged as if on a miniature surfboard. We chatted and laughed into the late hours, soaking in every moment. It is always great to connect with like-minded people and learn the ins and outs of preparing for a major event like the Winter Olympics.

Finally, it was time to head to the airport and leave Europe behind. Jelley had not left the European continent since arriving in January, which made it feel crazy that it was already November! A long stint in this beautiful part of the world. We were both buzzing with excitement to begin the next chapter of our adventure, Morocco. It was our last destination before returning home to New Zealand for the summer festivities, and we were eager to explore this North African gem of a country together.

Until Then,

 - A Kiwi and A Cali