Crete by our Feet

After one last beautiful Thessaloniki sunset, we decided to trade mainland Greece for island horizons. The next chapter of our Greek adventure was waiting across the Aegean Sea on the island of Crete! Crete isn’t your typical Greek island. It’s vast, rugged, and full of character. In fact, it’s the largest island in Greece and the 88th largest in the world! Thankfully, we had some insider tips from Jelley’s former UEFA boss who grew up in Crete, and helped us map out a few gems to make the most of our limited days at the tail end of tourist season (October 2024).

We landed ready to slow things down and sink into island time. By sheer coincidence, another familiar face was also on the island. Russell, an old exchange student friend from Jelley’s Costa Rica days, had been traveling through Crete for a month and was just wrapping up his own adventure. Our paths overlapped for one perfect afternoon, so we met in Chania’s picturesque old port for coffee and a sweet treat. We shared some food and a few laughs as we wandered around and Danielle got to catch up after first meeting back in 2011 during their high school exchanges in Costa Rica.

Although the peak tourism season was entirely over, it was perfect timing to hike outside of the intense summer heat. Our destination was the Southwest coast of the island. The most well-known spot is the Samaria Gorge, but this had closed for the season due to the risks of rockfall in flash floods and rain, and unfortunately a tourist had recently died. Jelley’s former boss also informed us that there were gorges in the region which are even prettier than Samaria Gorge, and that we wouldn’t be disappointed with the itinerary she proposed for us.

We hopped on a bus from Chania which wound its way up the island's steep and slightly sketchy mountain range to the start of the Agia Irini Gorge. While we missed the toll roads and tunnels of the North, we did feel gratitude when we saw the remains of an even more terrifying road before the existing highway was built. To add to the steep roads, there were goats and sheep everywhere! When we say the ‘season is over’, it felt kind of crazy as the weather was still phenomenal for Europe and water temperature was still very swimmable. Our theory was that the locals are just over it by that stage and want to relax and shut up shop for the year to enjoy their own backyard at their leisure. There were only 5 other people on the bus which was running once daily; so kind of fair to reduce schedules to meet the lack of demand.

We stayed overnight in a small roadside guesthouse so we could begin the gorge hike early the next morning. It was simple, comfortable, and exactly what we needed before a big day on our feet. The hosts cooked fresh homemade Greek food for us, the kind that feels both rustic and full of care. This was also where we learned just how much Cretans love their dakos. Dakos is essentially the Greek version of bruschetta, made with crisp barley rusk topped with fresh tomato, soft cheese, olives, and plenty of olive oil. It was hearty, full of flavor, and the perfect way to fuel up for the adventure ahead.

We set off for the Agia Irini Gorge walk the next morning and didn’t see a single other person the entire 13.5km walk. The quiet made the experience feel private and peaceful, and it gave us time to really take in the landscape. We moved through a gorge floor lined with a surprising variety of trees, breathed in the smell of wild sage, listened to the soft clatter of rocks somewhere above, and even crossed paths with a few tiny, curious Cretan goats. It was a gentle, beautiful walk that felt magical and absolutely worth the journey.

As we hadn’t had breakfast or a coffee yet, we were most disappointed to find the Tavern at the end of the trail was closed when we reached it at 10:30AM. We continued to walk along the main road to our accommodation we had booked just the night before. We were so stoked to arrive to such a wonderful apartment, and the very helpful receptionist helped us resolve a ferry ticket issue for the next day. Coffee and treats awaited us in our room; a pleasant conclusion to our gorge hike.

Sougia was a lovely beach town, and our first impressions were of how calm and peaceful it felt. It was hard to imagine the place buzzing with summer crowds only a few weeks earlier. It genuinely felt like we had the whole coastline to ourselves, at least until a short stroll along the beach revealed a rather unexpected detail. Sougia is actually a well-known nudist beach, something we had absolutely no idea about. The view suddenly became a lot more panoramic, and we both found ourselves choosing our line of sight very strategically after that. After briefly considering an afternoon hike, we decided the warm weather was far better suited to a swim and a beachfront meal, which also gave us the perfect excuse to try some more incredibly fresh Greek food. It was a relaxing way to settle into the afternoon and save our legs for another big day of walking we had planned for the next day.

Our plan was to walk part of the E4 Path, a long hiking route that stretches across Europe beginning in Spain and passing through France, Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Hungary, Romania, Bulgaria, and Greece before reaching its final end point in Cyprus. One section of this route crosses the entire island of Crete, starting in Kissamos in the west, weaving through rugged mountains and quiet coastal villages, and finishing in Kato Zakros in the far east. The full Cretan section spans over 500km/300mi and can take weeks to complete. We were simply hoping to experience a small and beautiful part of it.

To reach the start of the E4 section we wanted to hike, we needed to take a short ferry from Sougia to the nearby town of Agia Roumeli. The trail technically links the two towns, but that stretch is known for unstable cliffs and a narrow, treacherous path, so most people choose the boat instead. We also did not have enough days on the island to add another twenty kilometers to an already packed itinerary.

We woke early and walked down to the small ferry terminal, relieved to find that the north wind meant the boat would run on schedule. It was one of the last operating days of the season for ferries along the south coast, so when it arrived we boarded with about a dozen other passengers for the thirty minute ride to Agia Roumeli. The journey was spectacular, with the boat cruising past a rugged coastline and giving us sweeping views of Crete’s dramatic landscape.

We arrived at the small town of Agia Roumeli to the crystal clear blue waters. Agia Roumeli is the terminus point for the popular Samaria Gorge, and usually only gets busy in the afternoons when those hikers appear waiting for their boat transfer out, but The town was very sleepy and all boarded up due to the closure of the famous gorge when we arrived, and we jumped off the boat and headed straight towards the first sign of the E4 track.

Our first day of the E4 trail turned out to be a big one, covering 12 kilometers under the blazing sun. We were glad to have the number of a local water taxi driver tucked away in case we wanted to cut the hike short and get picked up along the way. The trail offered dramatic, breathtaking views of the coastline, clinging to cliffs above crystal-clear waters far below, but the heat was brutal. We welcomed every tiny patch of shade, taking breaks whenever we could and grateful to have packed plenty of water. The friendly Cretean goats kept us company too.

When we came across the ruins of a 10th-century church, it felt like we were just settling into the rhythm of the day. Even though it was only 11 a.m., we decided to take an extended rest, soaking in as much shade as possible and savoring the peaceful surroundings.

We only passed one other group on our hike that day, a family of Italians heading in the opposite direction. The heat was intense, and Jelley had never rushed into the water as quickly as she did when we reached Marmara Beach, which was not even the end of our hike. The swim was absolutely refreshing and exactly what we needed. Marmara Beach was a popular spot with day trippers, and for some reason we thought we were only 20 minutes from Loutro (the end of the hike). With time to spare, we settled in for a leisurely lunch at a clifftop taverna, taking advantage of it being the last day of the season for the restaurant. We enjoyed a delicious plate of slow-cooked goat, which was surprisingly yummy, and rested up before continuing on the final leg of our hike for the day.

The ‘20 minute’ walk we had remaining ended up taking over an hour, and we navigated one especially sketchy section of the trail, which was definitely the most dangerous part of the day. After a quick google search, unsurprisingly other tourists had fallen to their death from that very section. We were anxious to reach our accommodation for the night safely, and enjoyed the golden hour views as we eventually descended into the town of Loutro.

We were relieved and delighted to arrive, and our only disappointment was that we wouldn’t get to enjoy this charming village for longer. By a stroke of luck, it was literally the last night of the town’s season, and there was no choice but to move on. All the accommodations and shops were already boarding up for the winter, and we had to catch the final ferry the next day back to Chania or risk being stranded in this paradise until spring. It was a tempting thought, but reality reminded us that we did have a wedding to get back to in New Zealand.

We had one more day of hiking planned, aiming to tackle the challenging Aradena Gorge. Our legs were tired, and the idea of taking it easy proved hard to resist. We decided to slow down, savoring the coastline and the seaside instead. After a short walk to a neighbouring bay, we rented sit-on kayaks and paddled back to the same swimming beach we had visited the day before. The day was spent swimming, kayaking, and lounging, and we were perfectly content with our choice to take it a little easier.

We also took some time to casually explore the mouth of Aradena Gorge, which began just behind the beach. It was absolutely breathtaking, an enormous gorge with towering walls rising on either side. We didn’t venture too far in, since we didn’t have the proper footwear, but we were grateful for the sections we did get to see and the sheer scale of the landscape around us.

One thing we hadn’t anticipated was that, with nearly every accommodation and restaurant closed for the season, we had no options for lunch. Luckily, we stumbled across a single bar serving drinks that also happened to have a frozen pizza buried in the freezer. It wasn’t gourmet, but it kept us from starving before we caught one last ferry to Hora Sfakion, where we would then take the final bus back to Chania.

On the ferry, we met 2 Kiwis! This is somewhat of a rarity when traveling, and nice to hear a familiar accent. The wife’s grandad was buried in the cemetery in Hora Sfakion from the Battle of Crete (WW2), and sure enough when we rounded the coast we were greeted with the New Zealand and Australian flags at a memorial site, signifying the sacrifices New Zealand troops made in protecting the island of Crete in World War 2.

While waiting at the bus stop to head back to Chania, we noticed what looked like a driving lesson happening in a nearby car park. A Belgian mother was teaching her 16 year old how to drive a manual uphill, and based on the sounds and smells, it was not going well. As we wandered closer to find the bus stop, she spotted us as the only other people around, rolled down her window, and called out, "You guys need a lift?" We exchanged a quick glance and, knowing the bus wouldn’t arrive for another hour, said "absolutely!" without hesitation.

It was a total win, saving us a long wait, and a perfect reminder of the joys of saying yes to random encounters while travelling. The ride back to Chania was full of casual conversation. The Belgian mum was an interesting lady who had visited over 50 Greek islands, and surprisingly, Crete ranked low on her list. After a winding hour on the road, we weren’t entirely sure if her driving or her son’s was worse, but we made it back safely.

On our final day in Crete, we visited a few last sites in Chania and savored the remaining incredible Greek food before our next flight. Following the recommendation from the Kiwi couple we had met, we stopped at the Maritime Museum, and we were glad we did. The museum offered a fascinating account of the battles that took place on Crete during World War II, particularly the Battle of Crete in 1941, when German forces launched a massive airborne invasion and New Zealand troops played a key role in defending the island alongside local resistance fighters. Both sides suffered massive casualties, but Crete ultimately surrendered to Germany. It was interesting to learn about the connection between New Zealand and Crete and we also discovered that Chania and Wellington are actually Sister Cities, which felt like a remarkable coincidence! Exploring the museum gave us a deeper appreciation for the region’s history and the enduring ties between Cretians and New Zealanders. On a lighter note, the museum also featured a very impressive seashell exhibition, which we enjoyed just as much.

We also made a quick stop at the Archaeological Museum of Chania, which houses artifacts spanning Crete’s long history, from Minoan pottery to Roman-era relics and Byzantine treasures. By this point, however, we were pretty museum-ed out, so we decided to cap off our visit with one final Greek meal at a delightful local restaurant, Kouzina e.p.e., which was absolutely delicious. One of the best things about Greek restaurants is the way they serve food: huge vats of freshly made dishes, where you simply point to what you want and they bring you a plate, accompanied by a loaf of fresh bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. It was the perfect way to end our time in Crete and our Greek adventure.

We caught an evening flight back up to Thessaloniki to reunite with the rest of our luggage from the airport hotel, before boarding our flight to the next destination - Roma!

Until Then,

 - A Kiwi and A Cali