Moroccan Tea

Arriving at Marrakech airport was an instant shock to the senses. It was so busy. Something like 17 flights landed within the space of an hour, and passport control (customs) clearly was not built for that kind of chaos. Jelley was pretty relaxed since she knew what to expect, but Luke was feeling a bit more on edge. Brand new country, brand new culture, and a whole lot happening at once. Still, underneath it all, we were both buzzing with excitement about what Morocco had in store for us over the next 12 days.

Getting out of the airport took more than 2 hours. We quickly learned that weekends are the worst time for arrivals, and of course we arrived on a Saturday. November is also prime travel season in Morocco thanks to the great weather, so everyone else had the same idea. Our transfer out of the airport felt strangely familiar, almost like Qatar. As we crawled our way through the customs queue and made it to the other side, it slowly set in that we were back in the Arab world. Lots of “yalla yalla” being shouted as drivers exited the terminal. It was hectic, loud, and a little overwhelming, but it also felt like the real start of the adventure.

Morocco is a country built on layers of history, where centuries of different cultures have left their mark. Its Berber roots are still present in the mountains and villages, while Arab influence shaped its cities, religion, and architecture. Later, European powers, especially the French, added wide boulevards, orderly squares, and colonial-era buildings. Ancient trade routes once ran through the country, linking Africa, the Middle East, and Europe. Today, Morocco has a population of around 37 million people, with Arabic and Berber as the official languages (although French and Spanish are still widely spoken), and Islam as the predominant religion. From the modern, cosmopolitan streets of Casablanca to the maze-like alleys of Marrakech and the vast, silent stretches of the Saharan desert, Morocco’s geography, culture, and traditions offer an intriguing mix.

This trip was also a bit different from the usual akiwiandacali adventures. Jelley had actually been to Morocco before, back in 2017 (which our early blog readers may remember!), when Luke was off cycling along the East Coast of the U.S. Recently while we were travelling around Europe, Jelley won a discount voucher through an online sweepstakes with a company called TravelTalk. The catch was that voucher had an expiry date, so it was a use it or lose it situation. That is how we found ourselves booking a fully packaged tour through Morocco. Packaged tours are not usually our thing, and we did quickly remember why. Still, we were glad we gave it a shot. Plus, the route covered a few places Jelley didn't have the chance to visit on that first trip, which made it feel new for both of us, as well as visiting a few of her highlights she was excited to share with Luke. It also pushed us out of our comfort zone in a different way and gave us a rare chance to switch our brains off for a bit. After nearly two months of travelling independently through Europe, it was actually nice not having to plan every detail and to meet some friendly, like minded travellers in a more structured setting.

We were picked up from the airport by a friendly Moroccan gentleman who drove us into town and dropped us at our hotel. We arrived a little too late in the evening to join the formal group introductions and dinner, but that was fine. We had plenty of time ahead of us to meet our tour mates as we travelled through Morocco over the next 12 days.

The next morning we officially kicked off our Morocco tiki tour by climbing onto a big 40 seater bus. We met our tour guide, Abdul, a friendly Moroccan local who would be with us for the next 12 days. He handed out our itineraries and meal sheets and we were on our way. It all felt very strange and unfamiliar for us. Normally we are navigating train stations or Googling cafes, not being told where to sit and when lunch was.

Our first stop was the Menara Gardens, which dated back to 12th century and were originally built as a kind of royal retreat. At the centre is a large reflective pool that was used to irrigate the surrounding olive groves, with the Atlas Mountains sitting quietly in the background. It was calm, green, and a gentle way to ease into Marrakech before things got busier.

From there we headed to the Bahia Palace. Built in the late 19th century, it was designed to be one of the grandest palaces of its time, intended to capture the essence of Islamic and Moroccan architecture. The palace was originally home to a powerful grand vizier (political minister) and his family, along with a small army of servants. Today, the Bahia Palace is a historic site and museum that is open to the public. It is no longer a royal residence, but was a cool intro to Moroccan architecture. While she couldn't recall the name, Jelley was certain she had been here before, but without the crowds.

We then headed into the newer part of the city. This area was developed after the French established a "protectorate" in Morocco in 1912 meaning they ruled Morocco but let the royal family stay in power. The contrast was immediate. Wide, straight streets, European style buildings, and a layout that felt much more familiar to Western eyes. It was a clear reminder of Morocco’s colonial past and how different influences have shaped the country.

As we settled into our seats on the bus, our guide, Abdul, began weaving together the complex tapestry of Moroccan identity. One of his first points was a distinction that many visitors miss: while Moroccans speak Arabic, they are not all "Islamic Arabs." He explained that while religious Arabs arrived in the 8th century, the indigenous Berber roots of the country remain the bedrock of the culture. It was a helpful reminder that we weren’t just in a different country, but in a place where history sits in very distinct, sometimes conflicting, layers.

Speaking of unexpected layers, our tour group was packed with Kiwis! It was a total Trans-Tasman takeover in the middle of Marrakech. We were happy to hear a familiar accent again. Our first true "tour group" experience was a stop at an Argan oil women’s project. Within minutes, the "independent traveler" alarms in our heads started ringing. It was a quintessential tourist trap. However, nothing bonds a group of strangers faster than the shared realization that you're being sold a very expensive bottle of goat-processed nut oil. We ended up hitting it off with several of our tour mates over the absurdity of it all. 2 Scottish girls in particular in our tour group were pretty fun and keen for a laugh. Morocco is famous for its creative scams, but this was where we started to appreciate the "packaged" life. Having Abdul there meant we had a shield against the more aggressive hustles. It was a trade-off: we lost some of our freedom, but we gained a professional navigator to help us dodge the chaos.

We arrived into Essaouira just as the sun was beginning its final descent over the Atlantic. Located on Morocco’s western coast, Essaouira is a fortified port town that feels worlds apart from the red-dust chaos of the interior. Known as the "Windy City of Africa," it’s famous for its sweeping beach, its vibrant blue-and-white medina, and its massive 18th-century sea walls. It has a laid-back, bohemian energy.

After a quick bag-drop at the hotel, we were granted some rare "free time" to ourselves. We headed straight for the beach, walking along the sand as the sky turned shades of orange and pink. It was the first moment where the pace of the tour slowed down enough for us to just breathe.

Naturally, that peace didn't last long. We met back up with the group for a short walking tour that took us straight into the heart of the local fishing port. Now, Essaouira is famous for its fresh seafood, but the "freshness" at the market comes with a very specific, very potent cost. The smell was (to put it lightly) absolutely revolting. Even our guide, Abdul, couldn't play it cool; we all watched in horrified amusement as he tried to subtly hold his nose while explaining the local trade. It was a sensory assault that turned into a great bonding moment for the group.

It was during this "stink-tour" that we really hit it off with two fellow Kiwis, Nick and Lucy. In a classic small world moment, it turned out they were from Nelson and Christchurch! They were just wrapping up their O.E. (Overseas Experience) in London and were squeezing in one last adventure before the long trek back to Aotearoa.

By the time dinner rolled around, we opted for a little fish burger joint. It was definitely more Western than traditional Moroccan, but after the intensity of the day, a familiar burger and great company were exactly what we needed. We spent the night swapping stories about living in London and their plans for moving back to Christchurch. It was one of those nights where you forget you’re halfway across the world and just enjoy the "kiwi-ness" of it all.

The next day we set off on our bus tour and Abdul dove into some more Moroccan facts. That is one of the cool parts of being on a tour is that you do really get to learn a lot more about the country that you would otherwise. It reminded us a lot of our journeys through India with Victoria and Andrew and how our Guide, Manu, explained a lot on the bus while we drove between destinations.

One of the most enlightening parts of our time with Abdul was his deep dive into the nuances of Moroccan faith. He explained that while the global Islamic community is often portrayed as divided, Morocco remains in peace. Roughly 90% of the population identifies as Sunni and about 4% as Shiite, yet unlike the conflicts seen in other regions, these groups coexist without friction here. Abdul pointed out that the Quran itself doesn't mandate these divisions; rather, they emerged through historical and political shifts after the Prophet Mohammad's death. This spiritual dedication is woven into the very fabric of the country, which boasts the highest number of people in the world who have memorized the Quran in its entirety. An incredible 1.2 million Moroccans have achieved this feat, including 46,000 women, a statistic that really highlights the local commitment to their heritage.

We also learned about the practical side of being a devout Muslim in North Africa, which comes with significant logistical hurdles. For those wishing to complete the Hajj pilgrimage to Mecca, the financial and bureaucratic barriers are steep. Each year, Muslim countries are only permitted to send 1% of their population, and for a Moroccan, the cost is roughly $8,000 USD per person. While women in Morocco have a high degree of agency and can hold almost any professional role, Abdul noted there are still three specific exceptions: they cannot serve as an Imam (spiritual leader of a mosque, kind of like a pastor), deliver the call to prayer within a mosque, or ascend to the throne as Queen. In the Moroccan royal family, power traditionally stays with the men, marking one of the few remaining boundaries in an otherwise evolving social landscape.

After a long five-hour bus journey, we arrived in Casablanca. As Morocco’s economic powerhouse and home to over six million people, it’s a city that feels vastly different from the ancient vibes of Marrakech or the coastal breeze of Essaouira. The name Casablanca literally means "White House," a legacy from the Portuguese who occupied the area in the 16th century. Today, it’s a sprawling metropolis that blends gritty industrialism with Art Deco architecture and ultra-modern skyscrapers. While it doesn't have the same fairytale feel as other stops, its energy was undeniable.

The main draw here is the Hassan II Mosque, a structure so massive it almost defies belief. It was built between 1987 and 1993, with teams working 24 hours a day for six years to complete it at a staggering cost of $800 million USD (adjusted for inflation). It stands as the largest mosque in Africa and boasts the tallest minaret in the world, reaching 200 meters into the sky. The scale is truly humbling; it can hold 25,000 worshipers inside, with room for another 80,000 on the outside grounds. Even on a quiet day, you’ll find 1,000 to 3,000 people there for daily prayers.

Jelley had actually been inside the mosque on her previous trip, and since it sits right on the Atlantic waterfront, we decided to skip the interior tour this time. We’ve seen our fair share of grand mosques, including the Blue Mosque in Turkey, so we opted for a bit of "us" time instead. We took a slow walk along the coastline and grabbed a snack at a local cafe. It’s funny how exhausting it can be to sit on a bus all day, and that little bit of fresh sea air was exactly what we needed to recharge.

That night we checked in at a surprisingly upscale hotel in Casablanca. Most of the hotels we checked into gave a delicious cup of homemade iconic Moroccan Tea upon arrival which was delicious and cute. It was an upgrade from our usual "traveller on a budget" spots, and we definitely didn't mind the extra touch of luxury. Once we settled in, we met the group downstairs for a nighttime walking tour through the local markets.

If the afternoon was calm, the evening was the exact opposite. The markets were insanely hectic, immediately reminding us of the controlled chaos we experienced during our time in India. There were people, motorbikes, and noises coming at us from every direction. It was gritty, loud, and a little overwhelming as shop owners hustled to grab our attention. We spent an hour wandering through a labyrinth of stalls selling everything from fruit and vegetables to authentic knock-off Nike and watches. It was an intense, unfiltered look at the city’s heart, and we were glad to have Abdul leading the way through the maze.

To cap off the night, Abdul took us to a lovely local dinner spot that felt like a quiet sanctuary away from the street noise. This was Luke's first proper introduction to the Tajine, the absolute cornerstone of Moroccan cuisine. Named after the distinctive earthenware pot it's cooked in, a tajine is essentially a slow-cooked savory stew. The unique shape of the pot traps steam and returns the condensed liquid to the pot, making the meat & vegetables deliciously tender. We tucked into a mix of lamb and chicken versions, flavored with a perfect balance of spices like ginger, cumin, and turmeric, sweetened with apricots or prunes. It was absolutely scrumptious and the perfect way to end a big day.

The next day we hit the road again for the short drive to Rabat, the country's capital since 1912. Rabat is much smaller and more manicured than Casablanca, with a population of about 1 million. It’s also the heart of Moroccan politics. The government structure is surprisingly familiar to us, operating as a constitutional monarchy similar to the systems in New Zealand or England. There are 395 seats in parliament, and 130 of those are held by women. While the government is elected every 5 years to handle the laws, the King still holds significant power, particularly over the military. Any law passed in parliament must ultimately be signed by the King to become official.

We caught a glimpse of the Royal Palace, which felt like a Moroccan version of Buckingham Palace. The entire property spans a massive 45 acres, and even though the palace itself occupies just five, the scale is incredibly impressive. It served as a stark reminder that while Morocco is modernizing and embracing democratic elements, the authority of the monarchy remains firmly at the center of life here. Interestingly, we learned that until 1914, the Moroccan flag actually featured a six-pointed Star of David. It was the French who changed it to the current five-pointed star, eventually convincing locals of its link to the five pillars of Islam.

While wandering around the Mausoleum of Mohammed V in Rabat, our tour was suddenly halted. Guards stepped in, and we were told to wait for "someone important" to enter. A few moments later, Abdul whispered to us that the VIP was one of the top military leaders of Algeria. It was a brief, exciting spark of political theater that added a bit of weight to our visit. The mausoleum itself was stunning, a masterpiece of modern Arab architecture with its white silhouette and green-tiled roof, housing the tombs of the current Moroccan King's father and grandfather.

From Rabat, we began the long climb toward the Rif Mountains to find the famous "Blue City," Chefchaouen. As the landscape shifted, Abdul gave us a geography lesson on the Atlas Mountains, which are actually divided into three distinct ranges. The Middle Atlas is known for its cedar forests and Barbary macaques; the High Atlas is home to North Africa’s highest peaks and rugged Berber villages; and the Anti-Atlas stretches toward the Sahara with a much more lunar-like terrain.

He also filled us in on the Moroccan economy. While tourism accounts for about 10% of the GDP, the country is a powerhouse in other ways. They are a massive player in minerals, specifically phosphate, and have invested heavily in solar and wind power to offset the fact that they have to import their oil and gas. Interestingly, they are also a major car manufacturer, pumping out around 400,000 vehicles a year. Despite this industry, the wealth gap is visible; the average salary ranges wildly from $400 to $5,000 USD per month, creating a huge contrast in lifestyles across the country.

The drive grew more dramatic as we entered the Rif mountain range. The roads became windier, hugging the cliffs as the greenery deepened. When we finally arrived in Chefchaouen. A town of about 32,000 people founded in 1471, the blue hues began to pop against the mountain backdrop. To get our bearings, we headed off on a short hike to a viewpoint overlooking the town. Seeing the sea of blue nestled into the rugged mountains was pretty. On the way back down, we couldn't resist stopping at a local bakery for some fresh treats before diving into the town itself.

The Blue City is a literal wandering labyrinth. It is a maze of narrow, winding passageways where every wall, door, and staircase is painted in various shades of blue. We even caught a glimpse of someone repainting his door. Every corner hides a tiny shop or a hidden courtyard, and it is remarkably easy to lose your sense of direction. We managed to get lost almost immediately, but in a place this beautiful, wandering aimlessly is really the whole point.

One of the most common questions we had (and almost every tourist asks) is: Why on earth is this place so blue? It turns out there isn’t just one answer, but a whole collection of theories. The most popular story involves the Jewish refugees who fled to Chefchaouen, first during the Spanish Inquisition and later in the 1930s to escape Nazi persecution. In Jewish tradition, blue represents the sky and heaven, serving as a constant reminder of God’s presence. While the medina was originally mostly white, the "blue fever" supposedly spread from the Jewish quarter until the whole town was awash in it.

Of course, there are plenty of more practical theories too. Some locals swear the blue paint acts as a natural mosquito repellent, as the insects supposedly mistake the walls for shimmering, flowing water. Others say the colour helps keep the houses cool during the blistering Moroccan summers. While no one can agree on exactly how it started, everyone agrees on why it stays this way today: the town’s economy thrives on it. The local government even hands out paintbrushes every spring to ensure the "Blue Pearl" stays vibrant for the next wave of visitors. We spotted a guy repainting his door while wandeirng around. Reminded us a lot of the blue city in Rajasthan that we went through in India and the blue buildings of Santorini, Greece.

One of the bittersweet parts of being on a tour is that just as quickly as you arrive, you’re hitting the road again. We only had one night to soak in the blue hues of Chefchaouen before the bus was loaded up the next morning for the journey to Fes.

Fez (often spelled with an 's', though nothing to do with the French word fesse, which translates to "butt"!) is the spiritual and cultural heart of the country. Founded in 789 AD, it is the oldest of Morocco’s four imperial cities and stands as the birthplace of Islamic civilization in the region. Today, it’s home to about 1.7 million people and boasts the largest Royal Palace in Morocco, a sprawling 15th-century complex that guards the entrance to the old city.

The crown jewel of the city is Fes el Bali, the massive 205-acre Medina. Not only is it the world’s largest car-free urban area, but it also houses the University of al-Qarawiyyin. Founded in 859 AD by a woman named Fatima al-Fihri, it is recognized by UNESCO as the oldest continuously operating educational institution in the world. The city is also the namesake of the famous red felt "Fez" hat. While the hat is known globally by that name, the Turks actually refer to the entire country of Morocco as "Fes."

One of the highlights of Fez was our visit to the Chouara Tannery. Established in the 11th century, it is the oldest tannery in Africa and has remained almost unchanged for a thousand years. From the balcony overlooking the site, you see a honeycomb of stone vats filled with various dyes and liquids. The process is famously "all-natural," using pigeon droppings (which contain ammonia) to soften the hides before they are soaked in vegetable dyes like poppy for red or saffron for yellow.

The smell, however, is legendary for being absolutely putrid. To help us survive the "sensory experience," the workers gave us sprigs of fresh mint to hold under our noses. It helped mask the scent just enough for us to appreciate the sheer amount of manual labor that goes into every leather jacket and bag you see in the souks.

After we escaped the tanneries, we headed to a Moroccan ceramics shop that doubled as an artisan school. Fes is world-renowned for its blue and white pottery and intricate zellige (mosaic tilework). Watching the students hand-chisel tiny pieces of tile into perfect geometric shapes was a lesson in extreme patience; one mistake and the whole pattern is ruined.

We also spent some time exploring the textile industry, which is a massive part of the Moroccan economy. We visited a few shops where they specialize in weaving everything from wool to cactus silk (which is surprisingly soft and vegan-friendly). Seeing the giant wooden looms in action made us realize just how much "handmade" really means here. Whether it's a rug, a bowl, or a leather belt, every single thing in Fes seems to have a story and a craftsman behind it.

We said goodbye to Fes with a 6:30 AM wake-up call, bracing ourselves for a marathon day of driving. If there is one thing we learned about packaged tours, it’s that "seeing it all" requires a lot of time staring out a bus window. Still, the dramatic shift in scenery made it worth it. We stopped for lunch at a lush date palm oasis, which looks exactly like a desert mirage, tucking into sizzling hot tagines under the shade.

As we moved deeper into the desert, we learned about the people who call this arid landscape home. Abdul explained the vital difference between Bedouins and Nomads. While Bedouins today often have stable lives in villages with houses and schools, Morocco still has about 115,000 true Nomads. These families own no houses, living instead in tents and migrating twice a year between the Sahara and the Middle Atlas Mountains. They travel by foot for three weeks at a time, using donkeys and camels to carry their entire lives.

It’s a fascinating, independent way of existence. There are no "bosses" or formal organizations in these tribes; they are socially and economically self-sufficient. They don’t pay taxes, yet the King recently granted them access to free healthcare. They make their living through livestock, trekking up to 70km once a month to a market to trade a goat or chicken for a few weeks' worth of supplies. It’s a generational lifestyle that is slowly fading, in the mid-20th century, there were 4 million Nomads; today, only a fraction remain.

When we finally reached our desert camp, it felt like a little paradise tucked into the dunes. A network of little desert tents tucked away beside a massive luxurious hotel made for a funny contrast and rustic desert getaway. It was weird and fun at the same time and we were thankful for the opportunity to be out here. Luke especially has a fondness of deserts and wide open spaces.

The next morning marked a major shift in the tour's vibe. Our original group was split: those on the 10-day itinerary had to endure a brutal 12-hour drive direct back to Marrakech, while we were on the 12-day version and transitioned into a much smaller minibus. With just 13 of us left, it felt significantly more comfortable and personal.

With our smaller crew, we had an early morning wake up to catch the sunrise over the desert dunes before heading out for some "dune bashing" in 4x4s through the massively expansive sand dunes of the Sahara Desert. Sand as far as the eye could see. Beautiful orange and gold sand. We headed so far south that we made it to the invisible border with Algeria and could see it in the distance!

We carried on around the desert and visited a small nomadic settlement for traditional Moroccan tea. Sitting with them and seeing the simplicity of their setup was a humbling highlight of the entire trip. Such an interesting existence just living out of a tent full time and then picking up and moving to a new location every few months.

We made it back to camp for one final night in the desert. Had some free time so we borrowed one of the available sandboards and wandered around the deserts massive dunes. We hiked up a massive sand dune to catch the view. Even though the clouds robbed us of a sunset, we made the most of it by playing around with the sandboards and taking a quintessential camel ride across the golden crests.

To the east, the Sahara forms a rugged border with Algeria, while to the south lies the complex territory of Western Sahara. Although maps and the UN often show it as separate or disputed, it is not a universally recognized independent country. The region has been in limbo since Spain ended its colonial rule in 1975. Morocco claims it as the Southern Provinces, while the Polisario Front supports independence for the indigenous Sahrawi people.

As we began our loop back toward the Atlas Mountains, we made a pit stop at a local fossil workshop that felt like a portal into deep time. It’s hard to imagine while standing in the middle of a sun-scorched desert, but this entire region was once a prehistoric seabed, and the limestone here is packed with incredibly preserved fossils like trilobites and spiraling ammonites. The craftsmen at the workshop take these ancient slabs and polish them into stunning tables and intricate art pieces; they were way too heavy and impractical for any of us to lug back to the Southern Hemisphere, but it was still super neat to see 300-million-year-old sea creatures turned into high-end furniture.

Just as we left the desert behind, we stopped to explore the Khattaras, an ancient and ingenious water management system that has allowed life to thrive in this arid climate for centuries. These are essentially long, underground channels designed to tap into groundwater at the base of the mountains and carry it via gravity to distant oases, preventing evaporation along the way. We actually got to walk down into one of the vertical access shafts to see the tunnels firsthand. It was a fascinating look at the "hidden" engineering that keeps the desert green, and a reminder that in Morocco, survival has always depended on being incredibly clever with every drop of water.

Next up was the Todra Gorge, a massive limestone canyon where the sheer rock walls rise a staggering 300 meters on either side. It is a magnet for rock climbers from all over the world, and for good reason, the scale is immense. The visual contrast was truly epic, with the lush green of the palm oases at the base clashing against the deep red clay of the towering cliffs. We took a short walk through the narrowest part of the gorge, and while it was stunning, the independent travelers in us were definitely itching to ditch the group, go off-road, and tackle a proper day-hike through those jagged peaks. It was at this point that we really started to feel done with the structured packaged touring.

As the sun started to go down, we hit the Tissadrine, which is this famous, crazy zigzagging mountain road in the Dades Valley. From the bus window, it looks exactly like a giant stone snake draped over the hills. It’s definitely one of the most photographed roads in the world, and looking down at those hairpin turns was a bit hair-raisin! We spent our very last night at a really peaceful guesthouse right on the edge of a river. The water was so thick with brown silt and sediment that it looked exactly like the chocolate river from Willy Wonka. Even though the clouds eventually rolled in and we missed out on the famous desert stars, it was still a great spot. Just sitting there listening to the water was the perfect way to quiet down and think about everything we’d seen before starting the long trek back home.

As we made our way back toward Marrakech, we made a few random stops to break up the long drive, including a quick look at a bit of "Moroccan Hollywood." We pulled over at a somewhat cheesy Oscar-themed hotel, definitely a tourist trap, before reaching the real deal: Aït Benhaddou. This ancient, fortified village is a UNESCO World Heritage site and a filmmaker’s dream, having served as the backdrop for everything from Gladiator and The Mummy to Game of Thrones. Walking through the red mud-brick towers felt like stepping directly onto a movie set, even if we were just passing through on our way to the finish line.

And just like that, after a short drive later back to Marrakech, our Moroccan "tiki tour" came to an end. Looking back, would we do a packaged tour like this again? Probably not. We definitely missed the freedom of choosing our own cafes and being able to stay in a city for more than a single night. However, we are really glad we gave it a shot. It pushed us out of our comfort zone, introduced us to some great new friends, and allowed us to see a massive chunk of this complicated and beautiful country without the stress of navigating the logistics ourselves.

Now, with our bags packed and our "travel brains" finally switched off, it was nearly time for the biggest adventure of all. We were heading on the long journey home to New Zealand to get married and celebrate with our friends and family!

Until Then,

 - A Kiwi and A Cali