Adventures at Home

After the initial rush of being back on New Zealand soil, we dove straight into a summer of adventures with some of our favourite people. It felt incredible to be home, and we wasted no time booking in some trips to celebrate being back in the Land of the Long White Cloud.

First up was a big one for the Jelley family as we headed south to attempt the Routeburn Track one of the famed “Great Walks” down in Fiordland (bottom of NZ). On the drive down, we were lucky enough to catch a glimpse of the elusive Russell lupins while passing through Tekapo and Lake Pukaki. They were in full bloom, painting the landscape in vibrant shades of royal purple that contrasted beautifully against the turquoise water of the lake and Aoraki Mount Cook in the background. It’s funny, these lupins are just an odd weed that bloom around Spring time each year but they are so pretty in such a serene landscape! It was a stunning start to the trip before we actually hit the trail, and a reminder of just how beautiful Aotearoa New Zealand is.

Once on the track, we started out with a few stunning days of hiking and took in some truly epic views, but New Zealand mountain weather always has the final say. When we reached the main pass, the wind and rain turned so nasty with a thick blizzard setting in that it became unsafe to cross. We had to make the tough call to turn around and head back the way we came, but the company was so good that we still had a blast despite the change in plans.

Between the bigger missions, we made sure to carve out time for plenty of local catchups and shorter strolls with our favourite Cantabrians. It felt so good to be back on our home turf, hitting the familiar trails of the Christchurch Port Hills and local parks. There is something special about those local tracks, and getting to stretch our legs while properly catching up with friends was the perfect way to ease back into Kiwi life.

After an epic weekend of our 'Hen's' and 'Stag' Dos, we took a short 24 our mission over to the rugged West Coast to see in the New Year with Luke's closest American friends who had travelled over with their partners. We rang in 2025 by watching a beautiful sunset over the Tasman Sea and then counted down under a massive canopy of stars. It was a short but sweet adventure, and sharing that wild slice of home with them was a great way to start the year.

Then, of course, there was our magical wedding day and festivities with our nearest and dearest as we finally became Mr and Mrs Jelley. It was the most perfect weekend celebration of love we could have imagined, and we don't really have any words to describe it! The night before, during our rehearsal, the heavens absolutely opened up, and we found ourselves literally shoveling water out of the venue to keep the space from flooding from rain. It was a nervous, soggy lead up to the big moment, but the clouds eventually parted and the sun came out in full force for the ceremony. The transition from the torrential rain to the bright sunshine felt like pure magic, creating the most incredible backdrop as we finally said our vows in front of everyone we loved both in person and online for those dialling in from around the globe. The wedding festivities felt like one big, beautiful blur of love and laughter, and we wouldn’t change a single thing.

Eventually, the last of the suitcases were packed, our international guests headed back to their corners of the globe, and the two of us were finally left to start our next chapter together. We often joke that a honeymoon might be redundant because our entire life feels like one long honeymoon ... so we debated if we even needed to call it that. But in the end, we simply couldn't resist the opportunity for another epic adventure.

We started by escaping to a tiny, private glamping cottage tucked away on the Banks Peninsula for our first official getaway as husband and wife. The place was a darling, refurbished woolshed that managed to feel rustic and luxurious all at once. It was tucked away from the rest of the world, complete with a wood-fired hot tub right on the deck and walking trails surrounding it. We spent our evenings soaking in the water, watching the sun dip below the hills and the stars slowly fill the sky, just soaking in that quiet bubble of post-wedding joy. It was the ultimate way to decompress after an incredible year of global trekking and a month of pure wedding joy.

When it came time to decide what to do next, we realized we had a car and a total lack of a plan, so we figured why not just head north? Everyone always says that the South Island is far superior to the North Island of New Zealand (we agree), but we wanted to see for ourselves! There is so much to see and explore in the Te Ika-a-Māui (North Island), especially in the summertime, so we packed everything into our little black car with everything and boosted our way up to the top of the South Island to a port-town called Picton, making a brief stop in Kaikoura along the way.

Once we arrived in Picton, we settled into a cute little Airbnb and stretched our legs with a beautiful walk out to the Queen Charlotte View. Of course, a true "A Kiwi and A Cali" adventure involves jumping headfirst into the unknown without really knowing what the next chapter holds. So while wandering around NZ on our honeymoon we started applying for jobs while on the road. Some of the applications went nowhere, but a few reached out for interviews. Trying to look professional for a video call from the front seat of a car or a random Airbnb kitchen was definitely a challenge, but such is life on the road!

One of those interviews was for a unique role that seemed to appear out of thin air. It came through our work friend, whom we had recently worked with in both New Zealand and Germany, and we had built a close friendship with. It was one of those rare encounters where you never truly know where a work friendship might lead. She reached out about a couple of positions for the "World Expo" in Japan, though the details were pretty vague. We had never heard of the World Expo, but we had heard of Japan so when she sent us a message saying it might manifest or it might not, we said "count us in!" We did our interviews in the little garden of our AirBnB back to back, which the hiring manager found a little strange, but didn't think much of it as we carried on our road trip.

We then caught the beautiful ferry across the Cook Strait, crossing the stretch of water between the South and North Islands of New Zealand. It is always an adventure to ride the ferry and take in the majestic Marlborough Sounds and the busy Wellington harbour on either end. The views from the deck as you navigate the narrow channels of the sounds are world class, and it felt like the perfect way to transition into the next phase of our journey.

After arriving in Wellington, we decided to catch up with a former colleague who had worked with Luke on the 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup. We had a lovely lunch at the Maranui surf life saving club, which was a great reminder that one of the best parts of working in events is having friends dotted all over the world to visit!

While we were in the area, we also took a short walk through a tunnel that runs directly beneath the Wellington airport runway. It was a fun and slightly weird experience to be trekking underground while planes were potentially taxiing right above our heads and we could hear them as they landed. Speaking of the airport, it is famously known for being one of the most "eventful" places to land in the world due to the intense Wellington winds. It is also one of the few airports where the runway is completely surrounded by water on both ends, which certainly keeps things interesting for the pilots!

We ventured further north to a campground called Queen Elizabeth Park on the Kapiti Coast. The park has a fascinating history, particularly its role during the Second World War when it served as a major base for the United States Marines. Between 1942 and 1944, over 15,000 American troops were stationed here at "Camp Paekakariki" as they prepared for combat in the Pacific. It is wild to think that these peaceful rolling dunes were once a bustling military hub designed to help protect the South Pacific.

Today, the area is much quieter, and we made the most of it with some lovely walks through the park. We hiked up to a high point to catch the views over the coastline and even managed to find a spot on the beach for the most amazing sunset. We had the sand almost entirely to ourselves, watching the sky turn incredible shades of orange and pink as the sun set over the south island of New Zealand in the distance.

The next day, we set off on a fantastic adventure along the Paekākāriki Escarpment Track. This trail is often called the "Stairway to Heaven," and it didn't take long to figure out why. It is a rugged, narrow path that clings to the side of the cliffs high above the coastline, involving a serious number of steep steps and two dizzying swing bridges. The effort was well worth it, as the trail offered sweeping, panoramic views of the Kapiti Coast and Kapiti Island sitting out in the distance.

One of the best parts of the hike is the logistics. After finishing the trek, you can simply hop on a train to get back to your car at the starting point. It felt like a rare treat to use rail like that, especially in a country so heavily dominated by cars and road trips. Sitting on the train and watching the cliffs we had just conquered slide past the window was the perfect way to cap off the day.

Continuing north, we made a mandatory stop in Woodville to visit Grandma and the extended family, which is always a highlight! At Grandma’s recommendation, we took a lovely stroll through the "Stairway of Tane" in Palmerston North, followed by a nice lunch together at the local golf club. It was great to slow down and enjoy some family time before hitting the next trail on our list. Thanks for your kind hospitality Grandma!

We also took the time to explore the Manawatū Gorge, a place that has been at the center of constant controversy due to severe slips and erosion. Jelley's extended family joined us for the hike and convinced us that all of the locals walk around the barrier blocking off the destroyed highway. For decades, the gorge has been the main artery between the east and west of the lower North Island, but the unstable geography made it a nightmare to maintain. Historically, there were three ways to cross: the main road through the gorge itself, the Saddle Road to the north, and the Pahiatua Track to the south. The Gorge road was traditionally the quickest way to get through, but due to all the slips, it was abandoned. At the time of writing this, a massive new highway has finally been completed to bypass the gorge entirely, though it was still a work in progress when we were there.

We opted for a long walk along the old, abandoned road to see the damage firsthand. It was fascinating to see the remnants of various engineering attempts to save the highway from the sliding mountainside. Seeing the sheer scale of the rockfalls made it clear why the route was eventually abandoned; the cost and effort to keep it open must have been astronomical. Walking through that silent, crumbling corridor was a unique way to experience a piece of New Zealand’s transit history.

We headed further northwest along the coastline of the North Island of New Zealand to Ōpunake to set up camp at the holiday park there. We both absolutely love New Zealand holiday park culture. It is such a fun tradition of families heading out to a campground to enjoy the beach and the outdoors together. In many ways, it feels like a smaller, more wholesome version of the summer camp experience in the USA, where the focus is just on simple living in a caravan with your family. We took a lovely little sunset walk right next to the park to watch the sky change colors and appreciate the power of the Tasman Sea.

Interestingly, we learned that the Taranaki coastline holds a special place in the cultural fabric of New Zealand, especially as the heartland of the legendary song "Poi E." Created by Dalvanius Prime and Ngoi Pēwhairangi and performed by the Patea Māori Club just down the road, the song became a massive cultural phenomenon in the 1980s. It was groundbreaking for the way it blended Te Reo Māori and traditional poi with modern hip-hop beats, and it remains an unofficial national anthem to this day. Being in the region where such an iconic piece of Kiwi history was born gave the town an even more special feel as we enjoyed its laid back, artistic vibe.

The next big mission on our honeymoon roadie was a circuit around the base of the mighty Mount Taranaki. If you have ever seen a photo of New Zealand and you have seen a near-perfect, snow-capped volcanic cone that looks suspiciously like Mount Fuji, you were most certainly looking at Mt. Taranaki. Standing at 2,518 meters (8,261 ft.), it dominates the landscape so completely that it feels like the mountain is watching you from every angle as you drive. Taranaki is a still an active, although dormant, volcano on the northwest horn of the North Island.

The mountain has a fascinating and complex history, too. For a long time, it was known officially as "Mount Egmont," a name given by James Cook in 1770. Cook actually named the peak in honor of John Perceval, the "2nd Earl of Egmont", who had supported Cook’s voyage. Interestingly, the Earl never actually saw the mountain that bore his name for over two centuries.

In a significant move toward honoring its indigenous heritage, the name was recently changed back to Mount Taranaki. Even more incredible is its legal status; Taranaki was granted "legal personhood" through a landmark agreement in January 2025. This means that in the eyes of the law, the mountain has the same rights and protections as a person, recognizing it as a living, breathing ancestor of the local iwi. It is a powerful way to protect such a culturally significant landmark, and you can truly feel that sense of mana and presence as you get closer to its slopes.

Driving into the Taranaki National Park area was like stepping through a portal. The transition was pretty jarring; one minute you are surrounded by rolling green farmland, and the next, the bush and trees change immediately as you cross the park boundary. It is so beautiful and strange to see such a defined line where the wild, ancient forest begins.

We opted to check out Dawson Falls as a warm-up before tackling a more ambitious multi-day trek on the Pouakai Circuit. This was a change in plans, as we decided with ongoing interviews we couldn't take 4-5 days completely offgrid to undertake the Wanganui Journey, and will have to save that canoeing adventure for a future trip!

We were gifted an absolutely stunning weather window to instead complete an overnight hike on Taranaki; weather which is never a guarantee in this country. After a quick stop at the visitor center, we began a super steep ascent that really tested our legs. Once we reached the ridge-line, we could see that dramatic foliage contrast from above, a sharp, perfect circle of dark green forest surrounded by the light green squares of dairy pastures.

The ridge offered gorgeous views stretching across the lush landscape before we made our way back down to spend the night at a cute little DOC hut called "Holly Hut". We are huge fans of the New Zealand Department of Conservation hut system. It makes enjoying the outdoors so much more accessible, and there is a great social element to it as well. We encountered a youth group program on their first group hike together, as they chopped firewood and tidied up the surrounding campsite after their own big day. Since there is often no cell service and nothing else to do once the sun goes down, you end up meeting some incredibly interesting people. It is the perfect environment to swap stories with other travelers and bond over the shared effort of the day’s hike. As night fell, the clouds vanished to reveal a breathtaking view of Taranaki silhouetted against a vast, ceiling of stars.

The following day was even more spectacular, beginning with a deep blue sky that seemed almost impossible for such a notoriously moody region. Taranaki is famous for hiding shyly behind a thick veil of mist, so we felt incredibly fortunate to set off in total clarity. We crossed the marshlands via a winding boardwalk before the trail climbed sharply onto a neighboring ridgeline. From there, we were rewarded with a stunning 360-degree panorama: the vast, sparkling ocean on one side and the massive, the mighty Taranki on the other.

We were incredibly lucky to reach the famous Pouakai Tarns on a perfectly still morning. This is that iconic little mountain pond where, if you catch it just right, you get a crystal-clear reflection of the volcano mirrored on the surface of the water. It is a shot many people wait days for, so we felt like we had hit the jackpot when we managed to capture Taranaki in all its mirrored glory! The air was so incredibly still and the sky so clear that we could even spot the distinct peak of Mt. Ngauruhoe, the famous "Mount Doom" from Lord of the Rings, jutting out of the horizon. It was an unbelievable sight considering it was nearly 180 km (112 miles) away!

From there, the track carried us back down into the dense bush for the final stretch. By the time we were winding our way back to the car, the trail felt like it was dragging on a bit longer than we would have liked as is tradition at the end of a big hike. But honestly, we couldn’t complain. We were just so thankful for the opportunity to see Taranaki in such perfect conditions and to experience the mountain’s full, majestic presence.

We carried on with our North Island adventure, making a stop in a small but legendary town called Te Kuiti. This place is widely known as the sheep shearing capital of the world, and it fully embraces that identity. Each year, it hosts the New Zealand Shearing Championships, and the town is even home to a massive, seven meter tall statue of a shearer to prove just how serious they are about the craft.

Coincidentally, Te Kuiti is also the hometown of Kim Chambers, the incredible open water swimmer featured in the documentary “Kim Swims.” It is a rugged, hardworking little town that seems to produce some pretty tough people. We found a quiet spot for a nice little picnic, and while we were there, Jelley managed to squeeze in a short job interview over her phone before we carried on toward Raglan.

Raglan is the ultimate New Zealand surf town known for its black sand beaches and a deeply laid-back, bohemian soul. It is the kind of place where the air smells like ocean salt and woodsmoke, and the local culture revolves entirely around the ocean and a good cup of coffee. Luke actually had a bit of a nostalgic moment as we pulled in, recalling the time he spent living here in his van way back in early 2016 before we had even met.

We loved soaking up the relaxing vibes, spending our afternoons watching the surfers catch the famous long left-hand breaks at Manu Bay and wandering along the shoreline looking for sea stars and tidal life. It is an easy place to fall in love with, though we were significantly less impressed by the eye-watering house prices. It seems that even in a town built on a “simple life” philosophy, the real estate market hasn’t quite caught the memo!

While in Raglan, we made the obligatory stop at Bridal Veil Falls. It was honestly one of the best “low effort, high reward” walks we have ever done. After a short, easy descent through the lush bush, we were greeted by insane views of the 55-meter (180 ft) plummet. The way the water veils over the basalt cliff is incredible, and the sheer power of it hitting the pool below is something you usually have to hike hours to see.

After leaving the surf vibes of Raglan behind, we made our way up to the "big smoke" - Auckland. We stopped in to stay with a couple of other former work friends whom we had had worked with during the 2023 FIFA Women’s World Cup. It was so nice to reconnect with the city and reminisce about our time living there. Auckland is a completely different city in the summertime; the sparkling harbors and warm evenings make it much more inviting than the grey, damp winters we remembered from when we called the city home.

We also took a little excursion out to Muriwai to see the "gannet colony". Muriwai is a short 2 hour drive west of Auckland and the spot is significant because it is one of New Zealand’s few mainland nesting sites for the takapu, or "Australasian gannet". Thousands of these birds migrate here from Australia every year to breed and raise their chicks on the rugged, windswept cliffs. Standing on the viewing platforms, we were right in the thick of it watching them dive into the surf at high speeds or expertly navigate the updrafts to land on their crowded nesting ledges. A bit smelly, but pretty cool!

After Auckland, we set our sights on Northland, heading to a beautiful region known for its rugged coastlines and ancient forests. We stayed the night at Tāwharanui (pronounced ta-fa-ra-nui), a stunning regional park and campground that doubles as a “mainland island” sanctuary. It’s a special place where a predator-proof fence protects some of New Zealand’s most vulnerable species, including the elusive North Island brown kiwi.

We were determined to try our luck at spotting one in the wild, especially since we’ve been notoriously unlucky with wildlife in the past. We couldn’t help but laugh about our mission back in 2017 (see post here) when we paid for a guided kiwi tour; we spent 6 grueling hours shivering in the dark, bug-infested bush, only to see absolutely nothing. We were feeling much more optimistic this time around.

Since kiwis are nocturnal, we waited for a gorgeous sunset on the beach to fade before heading out. Armed with red-light torches, which allow you to see without disturbing the birds’ sensitive eyes, we stepped onto the trail and into the darkness. There isn’t much of a science to it; you mostly just walk quietly, listen for their distinct, piercing whistles, and hope for the best. After wandering through the bush for about an hour, we finally heard a rustle and a call that sounded incredibly close. We were in luck! Seeing a kiwi in its natural environment, snuffling through the leaf litter with its long beak, was such a highlight. We also followed our ears to spot an elusive Ruru, or Morepork, which we had heard many times but never seen in person.We were absolutely overjoyed, it felt like we’d finally broken our wildlife curse!

Still buzzing from the kiwi encounter, we pushed further north to Whangārei to catch up with some dear friends. They took us on a series of local adventures that showcased why this region is so beloved. We visited the tropical paradise of Matapouri Beach, relaxed on the white sands of Langs Beach, and trekked to the summit of Mount Manaia for some of the most dramatic coastal views in the country. This whole area is all about the saltwater lifestyle and soaking up the warm, subtropical weather.

We also made time for a walk around Marsden Point, a spot with a unique, slightly surreal backdrop as the former home of New Zealand’s only oil refinery. After nearly 60 years of operation, it was converted into an import terminal in 2022, leaving a strange industrial silhouette set against the beautiful coastline of Bream Bay. It was a pleasant reminder of how diverse the New Zealand landscape is, feeling like a world away from the rugged, alpine terrain we had been trekking through just a few weeks prior on the Routeburn Track.

While we were enjoying that quality time with our friends, the unexpected happened. Those "random" interviews we did in a garden back in Picton finally manifested. The stars aligned and we both got formal offers to go work at the "World Expo" in Japan! The only catch was the timeline. They asked, "How soon can you get here?" We tentatively suggested 5 days, and they didn't blink: "Great, we’ll book your flights."

Just like that, after 3 weeks on the road our "honeymoon" came to a dramatic end. Suddenly, we were in a race against the clock and found ourselves in the precarious position of having to drive the entire length of New Zealand back down to Christchurch in just 48 hours to pack our lives into suitcases and board a flight to Osaka, Japan! We made a quick lunch stop in Hastings and Napier before completing our North Island circuit back in Christchurch.

It was equal parts exciting and unnerving to realize our road trip was suddenly turning into an international relocation. We had just found this perfect, slow-travel rhythm on our honeymoon, and now we were about to dive headfirst into a new country together.

While the quick change of plans felt a bit wild, it was a great reminder of why we love this lifestyle: the ability to pivot and embrace the unknown at a moment's notice. We feel incredibly lucky that our next adventure found us right when we were most ready for it, and that we would be sharing it together. We were trading the roadtrip life for the neon lights of Japan, and we can’t wait to share the next chapter of "A Kiwi and A Cali" with you!

Until Then,

 - A Kiwi and A Cali